Formulating your own soap recipes can be exciting and fun to do as you become more familiar with the properties of oils used in soap making.  To assist you in formulating your soaps a lye calculator is a great tool to help figure out how much lye and liquids you need to properly saponify your soap recipe.

This video will give you a general overview of one of the most popular lye calculators in the soap making community.  There are others you can use which will be listed in the resource area at the bottom of this post.

Hope you have a clearer understanding of how to use a lye calculator and what a great tool it is to use in your soap recipe formulations.  Now make some fabulous soap!

Resources
MMS-Lye Calculator
Brambleberry – Lye Calculator
Soap Guild – Lye Calculator
Brambleberry – iPhone App - $2.99

Dear Soap Coach: I make soap at home for gifts and to sell sometimes. I store my soap in plastic containers. I opened a couple of the plastic bins that have been closed for months and the fragrance was awful!! I think it’s the way I store it. I don’t have much room so I like the stack-able plastic bins. Do you have any suggestions?? I make CP soap with olive oil and shea butter. It comes to trace nicely and smells great right then, but a bunch of my batches, different batches, don’t have a fragrance anymore or they smell like they have gone bad. But, I have to be honest, I must be doing something wrong, because I can never get any of my frangrances to stay. Here is my recipe: 6.4 oz Castor Oil, 19.2 Coconut Oil, 25.6 Olive Oil, 12.8 Shea Butter, approximately 18 to 20 oz of distilled water, Lye about 8.8 Oz and fragrance to taste. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much – Deb

Deb, thanks for allowing me to share my responses to you with others so that they may learn as well. There are a few things that immediately come to mind as I look at your question. I have outlined them below:

1. Usage of Shea Butter in Soap Recipe – We all know how awesome shea butter is as a moisturizer for the skin. Even though it is awesome it does have a high percentage of unsaponifiables. So what does that mean for a soapmaker. As a soapmaker we want to provide a quality moisturizing bar of soap. Unsaponifiable means that the fatty acids don’t convert to soap. This free oil is great as you soap bar will not be drying to the user. However you don’t want to over superfat. By over superfatting the extra excess oils are lingering around and sooner or later they may pop up as the dreaded orange spots. Since they are oil and not soap they will make your bar of soaps not smell as fresh as when you first made them as they are going rancid.

If you want to use shea butter in your recipe I recommend that you don’t use no more than 1 – 2 ounces in a 4 pound recipe. Replace the extra shea butter with other soapmaking oils such as coconut oil or olive oil but be sure to run you recipe through a reliable lye calculator so you know how much lye to use. So that you do have a moisturizing bar of soap you can safely discount the lye used between 5-8%. Most soapmakers lean toward the 5% but don’t go over 8% or the soaps will go rancid faster.

2. Using enough Fragrance/Essential Oils – Not all fragrances are created equal but a general rule of thumb is for every pound of soap use 1 ounce of fragrance oils or 1/2 ounce if using essential oils. This will ensure that you have enough scent in your soap that will last after saponification. You may have to adjust the usage per pound based on the supplier. If you are ever unsure of how much fragrance you can safely use your supplier should be apply to provide you with a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet). This is information from the manufacturer on how to properly use the ingredient and will include maximum usage rates in various applications. This will ensure that you are safely using the ingredient in producing your consumer product.

3. Properly Ventilate your Soaps – Cold process soaps unlike melt and pour soaps need ventilation. You should protect them from humidity and dust but they do need exposure to the air so that any of the water content used to make the soap evaporates. A better option to keeping your soaps when space may be an issue is recycling shoe boxes. Put a couple of holes in the boxes so air can circulate around the soap and then you still can stack the boxes on top of each other.

I wish you the best Deb. Let us know how your soaps come out now that you have these tips to consider when you make your next batch of soaps.

Do you have any other suggestions for Deb? Please comment below with your recommendations.  We all can learn from each other.

Have a question for the Soap Coach? Submit your question now with this form and it could be featured in an upcoming blog.

Resources
MMS Lye Calculator

Recently I experienced the wonder working power of lavender essential oil first hand. Yes, I used it for it’s aromatherapy properties that it is commonly known for; relaxing, calming and soothing.  However I had a recent incident where I used it in a more medicinal way.

When researching about lavender essential oil part of its history is how well it can heal minor burns and scratches.  I had heard the story about a 20th century perfumer by the name of René-Maurice Gattefossé who had a serious burn while working in the lab.  He reached for the closest liquid near him which happened to be lavender essential oil.  He noticed over the course of the burn healing that it healed quicker and there was minimal scarring.

My personal experience with the wonder working power of lavender essential oil was during a recent melt and pour soap making workshop I was facilitating.  As I was pouring the melted soap base into a container to pass to one of the participants I spilled some of the soap base onto my thumb.  Mind you the soap base was extremely hot as it was sitting in a crockpot set on high temperature.  I wiped the soap off my thumb and was thinking about how fast can I get to the sink to run cold water over it and maintain my composure.  But then the thought came into my mind, since I just finished talking about the aromatherapy of some essential oils, Lavender EO!

After massaging about 4 drops of lavender essential oil. The pain didn’t immediately go away.  It took about 15 minutes before I forgot about the burn.  But what I was more awed at was the fact that no blisters developed the next day nor did it leave any scarring.  The toaster oven has left me with scars just from briefly touching it.  I am not making in medical claims. I am just sharing my personal experience about this wonder herb.  I believe that when God created the earth he put everything in it that we needed to survive.  He created plants that have properties in them that our body can could use to aid in healing.  I am so glad he made the lavender plant in which essential oil is extracted and I didn’t have to be deal with more pain than I had.

Check out lavender essential oil for yourself.  Keep it on hand. You should already be using it for its calming and soothing benefits.  How have you used lavender essential oil? Do you have a story to share?

Kim Jones - CEO of Urban Tranquility

During last years Soap Camp I had the opportunity to meet this months featured student, Kim Jones.  She brought a relaxing element to the class. We soon coined the term “expressing your inner Monet” throughout the Soap Camp weekend. It was through the medium of soap making where those who had an artist side or not could showed their unique creativity. I am pleased to introduce to you Kim Jones the founder and owner of Urban Tranquility.

What classes have you taken with the Handmade Soap Coach?
I attended the Summer Soap Camp, Liquid Soapmaking Class as well as the Lotions and Creams Class

What made you decide to register for the class?
I was immediately interested in Soap Camp! 3 days of all things soap was just what I wanted in order to get myself into the world of Cold Process and Hot Process Soap making . I knew I had to attend.

What did you like most about the class?
I totally enjoyed the fun, encouraging, and creative atmosphere created by the Soap Coach. Our entire class bonded! I also liked that she shared her knowledge of soap making from the perspective of the hobbyist as well as the business owner. It was fantastic! Not to mention I was able to find my inner Monet (you’ll have to ask The Soap Coach about that)!!!

How did you first start making soapmaking?
I have had a love for essential oils for quite some time and sought different ways to bring my blends into the world. I started with creating body oils and eventually decided to try melt and pour soapmaking as the vehicle for the aromatic blends I was making. I found that I really liked the marriage of aromatherapy and soapmaking.

If you were already making body products what new products did you make after taking the class?
After my classes I have been able to add shower gels, lotions and creams to my product list.

Why did you decide to start a body care product business?
I decided to start a business because one – I wanted to help people have tranquility in urban settings instead of having to go to the country to get it and two – I was really burned out at my full time job at that time.

What inspired the name of your business?
I was attmpting to get information about an upcoming crafting event in Manhattan but I couldn’t find the info. Instead I was constantly directed to rural retreats with tranquil settings. I couldn’t afford a retreat and I didn’t want to go to a rural setting. I wanted tranquility where there was concrete and I just shouted “I need some Urban Tranquility” and that is how I got the name of my company.

What do you enjoy about making your own body products?
I enjoy the entire creative process. But really I enjoy seeing the smiling, relaxed faces of those who use the products.

Of all the soaps/products you make which one is your personal favorite and why?

Urban Tranquility Products

It’s hard to pick which of my products is my favorite. It’s like being asked to pick a favorite child. I love them all!! Right now I am using my Peppermint Eucalyptus Olive Oil Soap.

Do you have any plans or goals?
My goals are to continue expanding my product line, complete my aromatherapy certification program and to implement a strong marketing plan including social media.

How can people purchase your products?
My products can be purchased at my website www.urbantranquility.com and craft fairs throughout the tri-state area in the spring and summer.

What is your current professional career?
By day I am a Business Systems Analyst for a data warehousing software company. Yeah its very different than my evenings of creativity and yoga (smile).

Do you have any recommendations for others who may thinking about taking a natural personal care product class?
I say if you are remotely curious about taking a natural personal care products class to go ahead and take it! You will not only learn a great deal about how to make them but you will also find yourself surrounded by many like minded, creative people. Makes for a fantastic experience!

Do you have any advice for someone thinking about starting their own soap and/or bath and body beauty biz?
I have two pieces of advice to anyone thinking about starting their own soap and or bath and body beauty business. The first is to really identify your points of uniqueness and move from there, always maintaining what you love about making your products. The second is to make sure you understand the business aspects of being a business owner. I found taking an entrepreneurial training program offered by an SBA to be an amazingly beneficial program for me.

To learn more about the great products  offered by Kim Jones by visiting her online web store Urban Tranquility.  You will also see she is an Yoga Instructor as well as offers Belly Dancing classes where you can get your inner beauty on!

Today’s technology is constantly evolving.  If you are in business you either stay informed or take the chances of getting left behind.

If you are vendoring at a craft show, farmers market or at a large wholesalers show you need to capture the audience that you come into contact with whether they purchase from you or not.  Sometimes sales are not made on the spot but down the road especially after you stay in communications with them after the show and demonstrate why your product line is a must have in the home or store.

There are contact management providers such as Mail Chimp that have apps you can download to our iPhone, iPad or Android phones.  With these apps the contact can enter their information and sign up for your newsletter right on the spot.  No email newsletter sheets to keep track of and have to later manually input when you get home.

If you need help with why having a newsletter is pertinent to staying in business and in communication with your client read this informational blog post by Donna Maria Coles Johnson, Founder and CEO of Indie Beauty Network.   After reading it you will want to download that app and start collecting those email address!

What other ways are you using technology to stay in contact with your email list? Please share so we can learn from each other.

Support SOFIA

I am so glad that I have never been a victim of domestic violence. Nor to my knowledge have I personally known anyone who has. It is a taboo subject that gets swept under the rug and no one wants to discuss it. I have learned that our teenage girls are now dealing with domestic violence with the guys they are dating. What is going on here? Is no one telling these young ladies that they don’t have to take that kind of abuse? Is no on telling them that they are beautiful and worth much much more?

A good friend of mine that I met about 10 years ago at a networking event for women business owners started a non profit, called SOFIA, to advocate for women who are being abused in their relationships. She offers them an opportunity to find a couple hours of peace through bi-monthly meetings in which they do various creative activities.

Upcoming SOFIA Workshops

This month I will have the awesome opportunity to share with the ladies soap making on Thursday, April 12th at 6:30 pm. Through this session they will make a custom melt and pour soap and learn a little about aromatherapy. If you know someone who could benefit from attending this and any of the other workshops offered please share this information with them or in fact why don’t you come with them. The workshop will be held at the fabulous Pooka Boutique in Orange, NJ. There is no charge for any of the workshops.  They have had some great workshops on writing, dancing, massage and martial arts.

Please do you what you can to help break the silence about domestic violence. NO ONE deserves to be treated this way. Help organizations like SOFIA that offer support and education about this often silenced issue.

Scott M. - Measuring the Sodium Hydroxide

Most of the time when I teach a class I have women students.  I occasionally will have a man attend but most of the time it is under the request of their wife or an activity for date night.  Recently at a basic soap making class the tables were turned.  I still had the majority of students being women but the one male that attended actually registered for the class and brought his wife along to attend. They also confessed that this was sort of some “couple time” as well has they have two young children at home.

When we began making the cold process soap he volunteered to measure the lye. He had no qualm about handling the sodium hydroxide and measuring it out for the class recipe.  When I asked the students why they decided to take the class he stated he already had developed a body deodorant that was getting good reviews from those whom he has shared it with.  He thought it would be a natural progression to learn soapmaking.  His wife has sensitivities to fragrances and would like to develop soaps and other personal care products she could use as well.

I have a strange feeling I will hear some great things coming from Scott M. and I look forward to sharing this great success story!

Television, DVR’s, e-mail, facebook, twitter, linkedin, pinterest, cell phones…the list goes on and on… We are so plugged! If I can’t get you on the phone I can send you a text message. If you don’t answer the text message I can send you an email.  If you don’t answer the email I can send you an IM on Google talk.  We have become a nation of always being plugged in.  We are accessible 24 hours a day.  No wonder we are so stressed!

My toes on the beach in Grand Cayman!

Not for this Indie who went on Indie Cruise 2012 last week with 13 other fellow Indies from across the country! When the ship left port of Miami I put my lovely cell phone on airplane mode and used it only to take pictures and to know what time it is.  I did not turn the phone back on until I returned to the Port of Miami 5 days later.  Did I miss phone calls?….YES! Did I miss text messages?….YES! Did I miss emails? YES! But what I gained was time to allow my mind to rest and refresh for 5 days.  Here is a photo of our cruise ship. The one on the right.

Pirate Ship in Grand Cayman

Tee hee…just kidding I couldn’t help but include this photo in here of a pirates ship I photographed while in the Grand Caymans…tee hee…

During the five days, two days were filled with mastermind sessions in which we set some goals for our business.  I have cheerleaders in my corner to hold me accountable for the goals I set.  Will they beat me up if I don’t accomplish them? No, but they will stop and say hey what’s going on and how can we help get you back on track.

I loved the opportunity to get to know better my fellow Indies whom some of them I know through another trade association we belong to but I never had the opportunity to get to know them on a deeper level than I do now.

Our cruise ship is on the right

So I have some goals I have to buckle down and work toward.  You will be seeing some good things coming your way here at Handmade Soap Coach.  But I don’t want you to just sit back and enjoy the ride. I want you to come on board and join me for the good times ahead!

I know some of you have been unplugged before so share how you unplug from this plugged up world we live in? Do you have some tips you can share that may help someone else live unplugged? Please share. I would love to hear what you do.

From time to time my students ask about fragrances and are they natural. They tell me that the site where they purchased their fragrance oils from say it is natural. So I thought I would share with you and with the help of industry experts to define what the three types of fragrances are; natural occurring, nature identical and man made.

• Natural Occurring Scents aka Essential Oils come straight from the source.  They are extracted or expelled from the flower, bark or leaves of a plant, tree or flower.  These scents include herbs such as chamomile and lavender (flower) , peppermint (leaves) and cinnamon (bark).  They may also come from the resin (secretion) of a tree or plant such as frankincense and myrrh.  These scents have both aromatherapy and therapeutic properties.  Such as tea tree oil can be applied directly to a minor cut and process antibacterial properties to heal the cut.

• Nature Identical scents are the chemical equivalent of a natural scent.  This means it has been created in a lab that duplicates the natural scents exact chemical structure.  Though the chemical structure is the same nature identical scents should not be used for aromatherapy or therapeutic purposes.

• Man Made Scents aka Fragrance Oils are synthetic aroma chemicals.  They may include essential oils in their formulation but by no means are they to be considered natural occurring scents.  These scents will be things like cinnamon buns, banana cream pie, wedding cake, baby powder and even things like fresh apple.

To better understand the difference between essential and fragrance oils, I asked industry expert Certified, ARC Registered Aromatherapist Kayla Fioravanti to provide an example.  She shares from her new book “The Art, Science and Business of Aromatherapy” that “The differences between essential and fragrance oils can best be described by comparing a real orange to a piece of orange candy. The real orange has health benefits for the body and comes directly from nature. The orange’s color, shape, flavor, scent, taste and vitamins, as well as the psychological and physiological benefits, all come directly from nature. It was designed to nourish our body as well as provide vitamin C for health benefits. On the other hand, a piece of orange candy gets its sweetness from refined sugar and its shape from gums. It is artificially flavored and colored, has no health benefits whatsoever, and can actually be bad for our bodies.

In that example an essential oil is the orange, and fragrance oil is the piece of orange candy. The body gains nothing of value from fragrance oil because this man-made substance was only created to duplicate a natural aroma and not the properties. Whereas the essential oil is a function and byproduct of a plant created to protect, heal and pollinate life and is far more beneficial. The hormonal, antimicrobial, antibacterial, and antiviral properties of a plant are captured in the essential oil and enable the human body to use the plants vital energy to benefit itself.”

So why use Nature Identical or Man Made Scents? The answer is simple…cost and consistent scent.  Kayla Fioravanti further shares that  “synthetic fragrances are cheaper and always smell consistent because they are lab created. Nature does not always produce the exact same scent with each and every harvest of plant material. Essential oils can vary due to environmental differences from year to year and with the varying countries of origin for plant material.

The unfortunate side of a synthetic fragrance is that the manufactured scent does not contain the therapeutic properties of their counterparts, whole-plant based essential oils. Thus, the true power and purpose of aromatherapy is lost. For example, one drop of peppermint fragrance oil does not contain the same natural pharmacy that one drop of the essential oil has. The synthetic version only attempts to duplicate the aroma and not the properties transferred from the plant material itself.”

So there you have it.  A better understanding of what the different scent terminology means and the reason why you may consider using nature identical or man made scents versus essential oils.  If you want to have a more in depth reference Kayla’s book “The Art, Science and Business of Aromatherapy” is available on Amazon.

No, soapmakers aren’t super heros.  At least not the ones I have met.  But, we do need to have a super weapon on hand against the dreaded oil stained shirts.  I know I am not alone in this when I say I have had to purchase my share of new shirts because I would get oil on my shirts from making soaps.  Now how you ask I allow this to happen.  I do know better after all I am the Handmade Soap Coach.

I should change my clothes or put on an apron. I teach my students that they should wear old clothes that they don’t mind getting stains on or be sure to wear an apron.  So why am I so hard headed?  Well, sometimes I go into the soap lab and get drawn into making soap.  It’s powers are strong!

But have no fear…a soapmaker’s super weapon is here! What you may ask is this super weapon?

A few years ago I came across a coupon for Spray and Wash Resolve Power  Stain Stick.  I thought I would give it a try and see if it could save the life of my shirts.  After treating the shirt where the oil stains took over into the wash it went.  Just like Houdini the stain was GONE!  For the most part you only need to treat it once but there are some stubborn oil stains and a second treatment may be needed.

Don’t give in to the oiled stained shirts and start buying new shirts.  Save your money and get the Spray and Wash Resolve Power Stain Stick super weapon as part of your artillery. I now make sure I keep one on hand.

Do you have a super weapon that you can’t live without for your soapmaking? Please share them so we too might add them and be well equipped.